Uruguayan Gabriela Hearst surprises New York Fashion Week with a surreal collection

Ankle-length cashmere or shearling coats, cashmere for trousers and sweaters, knit dresses, and sets of dresses and gowns fastened with custom pins…The suggestions of this New York-based designer are diverse.

Hirst often resorts to a range of neutral colors such as gray or dark green, off-white and camel, sprinkled with some red.

Uruguay continues to use the natural materials offered by its native region in light and airy dresses made of satin or silk with deep plunging necklines, and gold party dresses so as not to go unnoticed.

In Hirst's designs, the shoulders are strong, the lapels are large, and men or women can wear suits tailored with metal buttons.

This was demonstrated by the models who paraded along the original semicircular catwalk evoking Celtic constructions, which was installed in an old industrial building located in front of the Brooklyn Naval Shipyard.

They often feature long, sleeveless dresses with deep side slits over trousers, which are sometimes made of thick fabrics.

Tailored paisley lace with Victorian sleeves could not be missing on dresses, jackets and shirts in a collection that evokes feminism, ecology, spirituality and, in particular, “the interconnectedness of everything”.

For her latest collection, the Uruguayan designer drew inspiration from the surrealist works of Mexico-based British painter and writer Leonora Carrington.

This symbolism, which he frequently invokes in his creativity, allows him to “merge the old with the new, reframe stories for the present and open to flexibility,” in “showing that everything flows and that we are able to adapt to new climates.” The designer explains in the presentation of her collection.

Cashmere is present in many of the clothes of this designer, who often designs clothes for the First Lady of the United States, Jill Biden, and which are produced using the skilled hands of artisans in Bolivia.

Her clothes are always part of an outfit that includes shoes – mostly flats for a mostly urban woman who has stopped being tortured by high heels – and small but elegant bags with straight, clean shapes and, above all, jewelry. , based on platinum, pearls and black diamonds, made by experienced craftsmen from New York or Florence.

(AFP)